ProTech Battery Charger Testing Procedure

All you will need for this test is a voltmeter and the tools to connect and disconnect the batteries.
This test is best performed at the batteries, but can be performed at the charger

1) Power down the charger and disconnect all the cables from the batteries (or the charger) and making sure the battery cables are not touching each other.

2) Connect the charger back to A/C power. The charger should be in either the Fast Charge Mode or the Absorption Charge Mode. Check the voltage between each positive and negative lead (or common ground) and see if you get 14.6 volts (for lead-acid batteries) or 14.1 (for gel-cell batteries).

3) If you see this, leave the charger hooked up to AC but, do not hook up the batteries. Leave the charger on for the allotted number of hours as set by the (S1) dipswitches (you can safely leave the charger on over night). Go back to the charger. You should now have just the green light on. Recheck the voltage and you should now get 13.3 volts from each positive lead to the negative lead.

4) If you see all of the above, your charger is working fine.

If you don’t see any of the above, your charger either has a blown fuse, or circuit board problem. You can remove the small cover (it has 4 screws on it), and the large cover with the fan on it (it has 6 screws). Remove the large cover carefully since the fan and the A/C terminal block is attached to the main circuit board. You should be able to see a glass cylinder fuse (A/C fuse). If the glass fuse is blown you can try replacing it (the fuse says 250 volts—-however if your boat doesn’t leave the United States you can replace it with a 110 volt same amperage fuse). If it blows a second time when you power the charger back up, then something happened to the circuit board (which we don’t repair). If that is the case, depending on the age of the unit, we can pro-rate you a good price on a replacement charger.